Brioche Lab217 recipes
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Brioche around the world

217 brioche recipes in 7 languages: French 64, English 50, Italian 34, German 33, Dutch 20, Portuguese 8 and Spanish 8. Each is reduced to grams per 100 g of flour, the same as everywhere in the lab, so a French page and an American one line up. English, the largest group, is the one the others are compared with.

The language is the page's, not the cook's country: a French page may be from Quebec, a Portuguese one from Brazil, a Dutch one from Belgium. Each language's lines are read in its own words and units, and a recipe that gives “a pinch” of salt counts a pinch.

Where they part from English

The clearest differences for each language, medians per 100 g of flour. Only differences large enough to matter and unlikely to be chance are listed (how below).

  • Italian 34 recipesItalian recipes use 27% less butter than English ones (29% against 41% of the flour weight), 32% less egg (34% against 50%) and 58% more sugar (19% against 12%).
  • Portuguese 8 recipes25% of Portuguese recipes use no salt, against 0% of English recipes.
  • French 64 recipesFrench recipes use 36% less salt than English ones (1.2% against 1.9% of the flour weight).
  • German 33 recipesGerman recipes use 36% less salt than English ones (1.2% against 1.9% of the flour weight).

Dutch (20) and Spanish (8) show no clear difference from English on any ingredient.

Every ingredient, language by language

Grams per 100 g of flour. One row a language, largest first.

middle half, and the median (the number at right; when most use none, the share that uses any)middle half of every recipesmall number after a name: recipes

Butter
Egg
Sugar
Milk or water
Salt
Yeast

The typical loaf in each language

The median of each language's recipes for every ingredient, scaled to 400 g of flour. No single recipe is exactly this. Under each, the recipe nearest its language's medians.

The medians and middle halves as a table
Median and middle half per 100 g of flour, by language
LanguageButterEggSugarMilk or waterSaltYeast
French 6430%22% to 48%37%25% to 57%15%12% to 18%25%8.9% to 44%1.2%0.2% to 2%1.4%1.3% to 2.2%
English 5041%33% to 50%50%40% to 59%12%10% to 17%25%17% to 32%1.9%1.6% to 2.4%1.4%1% to 1.9%
Italian 3429%20% to 36%34%24% to 40%19%12% to 23%34%21% to 40%0.4%0.1% to 1.6%1%0.7% to 1.4%
German 3340%28% to 50%40%25% to 50%10%8.3% to 14%24%9.1% to 40%1.2%0.2% to 1.6%1.4%1.3% to 1.9%
Dutch 2046%41% to 50%59%40% to 63%9.8%7.5% to 15%21%9.9% to 32%1.6%0.1% to 2%1.6%0.8% to 2%
Portuguese 824%18% to 46%29%17% to 54%15%11% to 20%31%3.8% to 39%1.2%0.08% to 2.7%1.2%1% to 1.7%
Spanish 839%19% to 55%45%30% to 59%17%12% to 21%18%10% to 25%1.5%0.5% to 1.8%1.3%1.3% to 2.2%

How the comparison works

A language gets a row with at least 8 recipes. Each is compared with the English recipes on every ingredient, and a difference is listed only when it clears two bars: the medians sit at least a third of the middle half of all recipes apart (about half a standard deviation, a medium effect), and a rank test puts the gap at 3 standard errors or more, so a language with few recipes needs a large difference. For an ingredient many recipes skip, the share using none counts too: at least 25 points apart, at the same 3 standard errors.

Every ingredient is tested for every language, a few dozen tests per lab, which is why the bar is higher than the usual two standard errors. Salt is listed last when it differs: many recipes give it as a pinch or leave it to taste. Shares and “more than” percentages are rounded down, so none is an overstatement.

These are what recipe writers in each language do, not rules of each country's cooking. A language with 8 to 20 recipes may come mostly from a few sites; each recipe page names its source.